A Slightly Less Magical Maui September 7-14th, 2024

We had not been to Hawaii for over 3 years.  In a sweeter time, when my father was alive and my children were growing, we went every other year for two weeks, including a week on Maui, where my parents owned enough time share to accommodate both them and my family.  Time, sadly, gave way to the COVID pandemic of 2020, the poor health and subsequent passing of my father, and the ever evolving adult lives of my children, causing our dear trips to Hawaii to become more sporadic.  My mom has reduced her ownership to one unit every other year, and in September of this year, my husband, one daughter, and I  joined her in the use of her timeshare.

So, not to put too fine a point upon it, Maui has changed.  On August 8, 2023, downed power lines and high winds ignited the West Maui town of Lahaina, its shops, restaurants, attractions, and residential community. The fires killed 102 people, destroyed over 2000 structures, and displaced 10,000 people, many of whom are still living in West Maui hotels.  Though a very few businesses have managed to rebuild and reopen, most of Lahaina is an inaccessible wasteland of flattened structures.

I can't say for sure if the fire triggered anything, but in general we found Maui to be more restricted, more rules-bound, and less welcoming to visitors.  Things we had done many times in the past freely were different experiences.  I'll get into all this in a bit.  

MAUI IN SEPTEMBER:

The very uncrowded Napili Pool 

I think before I do I will mention the fact that this time we were in Maui in September after Labor Day, instead of in the middle of July.  Now I don't know if tourists are still avoiding West Maui because Lahaina is not open for business, but, in general, Maui was FAR less crowded.  At the hotel, it was easy to find lounge chairs at the pool, there were no teenagers throwing footballs in the water, and there was no line for the slide.  There was no wait for BBQ's or outdoor tables and the gym was empty.  Out and about, the wait times at popular restaurants (Hula Grill, specifically) were shorter and parking was easier at frequently hard to park places like Hamoa Beach.  Snorkeling was clearer, less crowded and with better fish counts at popular spots like Molokini.  The weather was still excellent, with no rain falling during our stay.  Surf was relatively calm at all beaches, both in west and south Maui.  Our snorkeling and sunset cruises were significantly below capacity and hiking trails were drier.  We ran into only one problem at the Olivine Pools, where the water was kind of mucky from not being refreshed regularly by the surf, but we did not find this problem to be repeated on the Hana Highway.

Our very empty morning snorkel cruise

Very clear snorkeling!!

FOUR WINDS III: 

Maui Classic Charters replaced their morning snorkel vessel, the Four Winds II, with a brand new catamaran, appropriately named, the Four Winds III.  The morning snorkel is still a blast with a great crew, great food, great snorkeling, and a great boat with a slide and a few jump off points, so there is not much to complain about, but, they did make some changes that we were not so fond of. 1) You have to chose your lunch when you board at 7am between a hot dog, a pulled pork sandwich, a chicken salad sandwich, or a vegie burger (they no longer BBQ chicken on board) so no changing your mind.  2)  All the food is packaged up and put away as soon as the boat leaves Molokini, so you have to eat during your potential snorkel time and no relaxing lunch with your beer on the ride back.  Also, there is no opportunity for seconds (remember the boat was not full) until just minutes before departure, at which time the horde descends to the galley like starved pigeons.  Previously, there had been no obvious limit on the food. 3) And this one was the kicker--once you start drinking, you can't go back in the water.  LIKE WHAT?  For a family like ours that is constantly on and off the boat, this was seriously ridiculous!  180$ and you are going to limit the food AND the alcohol?  AS IF!

The beautiful new Four Winds III

No beer yet for you!

I guess by this time I was done swimming!

Additionally, and this affects not just the FW3 but anything related to the ocean (and that's kind of a big draw on Maui), as of October of 2022, Maui has banned the sale, distribution, and USE of all non-mineral sunscreen.  Basically, gonna tell ya, any sunscreen you buy on the mainland is a chemical sunscreen, so if you brought your own (we did) you are not supposed to use it as it is bad for the reef, SO..to be in accordance with the law you are going to have to buy new sunscreen when you get to Maui.  Though inconvenient, this is probably good in the long run for the fishies, and it eliminates all those spray on aerosol sunscreens that I really hate.  Anyway, not sure your sunscreen is reef safe?  Oxybenzone, Avobenzone, Oxinoxate and Octocrylene are no-no's.  Look for Zinc Oxide and Titanium Oxide. Incidentally, the Big Island of Hawaii has also implemented this measure.

TERALANI SUNSET COCKTAIL CRUISE:

The Teralani Sunset sail is still good fun, but again, for $125, I want much stronger drinks and way more food.  I probably had 4 drinks and I was so full of juice I almost floated away.  They also require you to remove your shoes but give you no place to store them, as was provided previously.

Keep those drinks coming, please!!

THE HANA HIGHWAY:

Now the road to Hana clearly requires no outlay of funds.  The highway for us has always been a collection of little off road activities which mostly involve hiking to secret pools, swimming under waterfalls, and jumping off rocks, usually without anyone else nearby.  These days it has become boldly apparent that visitors are not welcome to share in the natural delights the highway has to offer.

Ever feel like you're not wanted??

In at least 3 places, the four falls of Na'ili'ili'haele, Ching's Pond, and Hanawi Falls we saw the same ugly red signs at the entrances warning visitors to keep out.  Each had the same diatribe (good luck deciphering the fine print as you drive by on the highway) about being the "chosen people to protect the 'aina" and letting visitors know they are not welcome. "No visitors.  Locals Only!" I thought this to be a pretty crappy attitude, not to mention an illegal one.  Luckily, this time we had not intended to stop at any one of these places.  

There are a lot more no parking signs at waterfall sites and early in the morning enforcement comes to cone off what remains.  We were swimming at Waikamoi Falls at literally 8am when a guy came and told us to move the car (very nicely though I might add).

Ale'ale Falls on the far side beyond Kipahulu is now closed to the public.

Some good news is that Hana Bay at Ka'uiki Head after being closed the last time we visited is back open for business! This is a mighty treacherous yet short hike leading to some of the very best snorkeling in all of Hawaii.  Also still open for swimming are the falls at Pua'a Ka'a State Park.  At about 9am we were able to swim unaccompanied in the lower falls (we were nervous about disobeying the signs to the upper falls this year).  By 9:30 however FOUR tour buses full of gawkers started to upload, so we got out.  

Ready to snorkel in Hana Bay!

Swimming at Pua'a Ka'a State Park

Back to the bad news, as on January 2024 the road "all the way around" has been closed (due to structural integrity issues) forcing us for the first time to go back the way we came.  Can't believe I would ever say this but I actually liked it more and I think it was faster.  No known time when the road will open again.

OKAY, SO A FEW MORE THINGS, DEVELOPMENTS.

1) You now need reservations (timed and paid) at Haleakala State Park and Waianapanapa State Park.  At Makena (aka Big Beach) State Park you now have to pay to park $10, and every member of your party has to pay $5, so we made our way over to Po'olena'lena, which is still free.  You can make reservations at this website

2) Remember the Ka'anapali Beach Path extending from the Hyatt all the way to the Sheraton?  Well, it's now washed out in front of the Ka'anapali Ali'i, leaving a 100 yard stretch which is sand.  Again, no plans for repair.  Not so fun in tennis shoes if you are running (or any shoes for that matter) and hard on those with balance issues, like my mom, who decided she could not walk to Whalers Village on her own anymore.  There is a long paved detour, like 300 yards.

3) Another disturbing site is the occasional upside down display of the Hawaiian flag.  We saw this in prominent places, like at the Westin.  I looked it up to learn that such a display of the flag is a protest against the US government.  Apparently many Hawaiians want Hawaii to be its own sovereign country again.  Well, I'm not sure how that would go.  Just disappointing to see all the anger.

Photo courtesy of UH Hilo

Speaking of anger, in summer I tried to contact a Lahaina establishment we had been to before to try and make a breakfast reservation. Their website is up and says open for business and had a number to call.  After multiple patient emails, FB messages and voicemails, finally I got a FB message in response, "Lahaina town burned down.  Nothing has been rebuilt!"  I thought this was rather uncalled for so I said, "Gosh, your website says you are open.  A polite response would have been fine.." to which I was replied, "Yesterday was the one year anniversary.  I don't owe you anything.  Your rudeness is not what we need on island!"  Excuse me, what?  I told him/her they were the rude one and blocked them.  So much anger.  Noted, Maui.

Maui is a paradise.  On any day it is so much better than any day at work, but increasing prices and decreasing aloha have marred some of its allure.  Maybe some healing leading to mutual respect and compromise can be achieved in the future so locals and visitors alike can continue to say Maui No Ka Oi.

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And now for some pictures!!!

Beautiful Kahekili Beach

Good Night, Maui!

Beautiful West Maui Sunsets